Garment-making machine



Dec. 9, 1930. I GIANCOLA 1,784,687

GARMENT MAKING MACHINE Filed Oct. 3, 1928 PatentedDec. 9, 1930 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE NICHOLAS GIAuooLA, on

GARMENT-MAKING MACHINE Applicationfikd October 3, 1928.-- Serial No. 309,913

This invention relates to improvements in garment making machine and consists of the novel construction hereinafter disclosed.

The present invention is an improvement upon the machine of my invention disclosed in Patent No. 1,643,410 dated September 27, 1927. l

' An object of the invention isto improve the construction and operation of a machine of the character shown in my aforesaid patent whereby the facility of operation is increased and the range of work accomplished by the machine is increased.

Improvements and advantages of the present construction will be apparent from the following detailed description thereof taken in connection with the accompanyingdrawing in which Fig. 1 is a vertical section of the machine.

Fig. 2 illustrates a coat lapel comprising a number of plies of material afterthey have been secured together and before the lapel is turned. 1

Fig. 3 is the finished lapel after it has been 6 turned.

While I have illustrated the machine in connection with its operation in turning coat lapels, the present invention is also applicable for turning glove fingers or other garments or parts of garments comprising plies secured together with the rough edges out and which are required to be turned to produce a finished product. V

In the embodiment of the invention illustrated in the drawing, 1 isa frame on the '6, said rod having its lower extremity 9 tapered a-nd bluntly rounded.v The rod 8 is actuated to raised position by an expansion spring 10 surrounding the rod and seated within the housing so that its lower extremity bears against the inner face of the lower wall of the housing 6 and itsupper extremity against an adjustable nut 11 on the rod 8. The top of the rod 8 isthreadedat 12 and a pair of thumb nuts 13'are threaded on the screwed portion 12, said thumb nuts being adjustable'to determine the extent of downbelow the rod 8 and supported on the base member 2 is tapered vertical arm 14 havward movement of said rod 8. Immediately 7 ing its upper extremitybluntly formed. Said I arm 14 isprovided with a threaded shank 15 at its lower end which extends through an opening in the base plate anda nut 16 screwed on said shank serves to removably hold the member 14 in adjustment. It has been found that in working on material of diife'rent thicknesses the machine may be op- I erated tobetter' advantage if the extent of mo-vement ot the'rod 8 toward the arm 14 may be controlled and regulated. On very thin material the extremity of the rod 8 should approach closely the extremity of the arm 14 and, where the material is of greater thickness, the space between the rod 8 and the arm 14 when adjusted to adjacent position should be relatively wider. This is accomplished by the setting of thethumb nuts 13 which act as abutments against the upper wall of the housing6 and determine the'exact extent of the downward movement of the rod 8. It has also been found, on working on garments or parts of garments where the opening between the plies is relatively small that the movement of the rod 8 coaxially with the axis of the arm 14, makes it possible to turn such garments or parts of garments with facility and without the necessity of guiding the upper port-ion of the work operated on to meet the arcuate path of the arm shown in the machine of my prior invention.

As illustrative of the operation of the machine, I have shown a coat lapel which comprises several plies of material stitched in the first operation with the raw edges outwardly. This stage of the operation on a lapel is illustrated in Fig. 2 of the drawing.

The lapel in this condition is applied so that the extremity 9 of the rod 8 engages the lapel corner 17' and the rod 8 is then depressed to bring it into proximity to the extremity of the arm 1a and the plies of the material comprising the lapel are then turned downward- 1y with sufficient force to turn the lapel corner in finished relationship, as shown in Fig. 3. It is also obvious that in glove making the fingers may be stitched with the raw edges out and the fingers of the glove in reverse position applied to the extremity of the rod .8

and the rod 8 then being brought so that its extremity 9 is in proximity to the extremity of the arm l t and the glove finger turned so that the finished seamis outward, 7

Other purposes and uses of the machine to accomplish similar functions in garment making will suggest themselves to those skilled in the art.

It will be understood that the mechanism for depressing the rod 8 in opposition to the spring 10 may be operated in any convenient manner, that illustrated including a flexible cable 18 which is secured at one end to the nut 11 carried by the rod 8 and at the other end to a treadle lever 19 pivoted at 20 near the bottomof the frame 1.. The flexible member 18 operates over a sheave 21 mounted within the horizontal portion iofthe pedestal'and over a sheave 22 mounted within the pedestal, approximately at the junction between the vertical section 3 and the horizontal section 4 thereof. By applyingpower to the treadle lever 19 it is obvious that the rod 8 will be actuated downwardly in opposition to the spring 10, and that the downward movement may be arrested at a predetermined distance from the end of the arm 14 by adjusting the thumb nuts 13. i

From the foregoing it will be obvious that the construction of my previous invention has been improved and that its range and facility of operation have been widened. I

am aware that the invention may be modified in certain particulars without departure from the nature, principle and scope thereof.

What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. In'a machine of the character described, a frame, an angular hollow pedestal comprising avertical portion having its lower end attached to said frame and a horizontal portion projecting forwardly from the upper end of said vertical portion, a rod supported by and at the extremity of said horizontal portion of said pedestal for vertical reciprocatingmovements, a rigid arm supported on i said frame below and in axial alinement with said rod, a spring at the forward end of said horizontalportion of said pedestal actuating said rod upwardly in a directionaway from said arm, and power mechanism'connected with said rod for moving said rod toward said arm in opposition to saidspring.

I 2. In a machine of the character described, a rigid frame, an angular hollow pedestal tal, and means for operating said connection to move said rod toward said arm in opposition to said sprin a 3. In a machine of the character described, a rigid frame, an angular hollow pedestal comprising a vertical portion having its lower end attached to said frame and a horizontal portion projecting forwardly from the up- 4 per end of said vertical portion, a rod mounted for vertlcal reciprocating movement in and near the forward extremity of said hori fzontal portion of said pedestal, a spring encircling said rod within thehoriz-ontal portion of said pedestal and actuating said rod to its uppermost position, a rigidarmsupported on said frame below and in axial alinement with said rod, sheaves supported in said pedestal, a flexible connection from said rod extending through said pedestal and into engagement with said sheaves and extending downwardly in said frame, and means for operating said connectlon to move said rod toward said arm in opposition to said spring.

4. In a machine of the character described,

. a rigid frame, a pedestal rigidwitb and extending above the upper end of said frame,

a housing. an extension rigid with said pedestal and with said housing and support ing said housing toward the front of said frame from said pedestal, a rod mounted for vertical reciprocating movements through said housing, a spring in said housing and actuating said rod upwardly, a part limiting extent of upward movement of said rod, a flexible connection extending upwardly through said pedestal and angularly forwardly and upwardly to connection with said 7 rrod, devices cooperating with said connection to hold said connection 1n said angular posi- Hit) tion, means for operating said connection to move said rod downwardly in opposition to said spring, and a rigid arm supported on said frame below and inaxial alineme-nt with said rod.

. 5. In a machine ofthe character described, a rigid pedestal comprising an upwardly extending portion and a portion rigid with and extending angularly ,forwardlyfrom said upwardly extending portion, a housing at the forward end of said forwardly extending portion, a rod mounted for vertical reciprocating movements through said housing, a spring in said housing and actuating said rod upwardly, a flexible connection attached to said rod in said housing and extending angularly from said connection to a point below said pedestal, an actuator for actuating said connection to move said rod downwardly in opposition to said spring, and elements engaging and holding said connection in the v angular arrangement aforesaid and causing said connection to move said rod downwardly as aforesaid.

6. In a machine of the character described, an angular pedestal comprising an upwardly extending portion and a portion extending forwardly from the upper end of said up wardly extending portion, a rodsupported for vertical sliding movements near and with respect to the forward end of said forwardly extending portion of said pedestal, a spring actuating said rod upwardly, a part limiting extent of upward movement of said rod by said spring, a flexible connection attached to said rod and extending in an angular relationship rearwardly and downwardly to a point below said pedestal, elements supported by said pedestal holding said connection in said angular relationship, and means for actuating said connection across said elements to move said rod downwardly in oppositionto said spring.

7. In a machine of the character described, an angular pedestal comprising an upwardly extending portion and a portion extending forwardly from the upper end of said upwardly'extending portion, a rod supported for vertical sliding movements near and with respect to the forward end of said forwardly extending portion of said pedestal, a spring actuating said rod'upwardly, a partlimiting extent of upward movement of said rod by said spring, a flexible connection. at

tached to said rod and extending in an angular relationship rearwardly and downwardly to a point below'said pedestal, elements supported by said pedestal holding said connection in said angular relationship, means for actuating said connection across said elements to move said rod downwardly in opposition to said spring, and an arm rigidly supported below and approximately in aline ment with said rod.

NICHOLAS GIANCOLA. 

